Gel-Kayano

An important year

1986 was an important year for ASICS as two significant events occurred that would drastically alter the future of the Japanese sportswear brand. The first was the introduction of a revolutionary gel-based cushioning technology, and the second was the arrival of a talented young shoe designer called Toshikazu Kayano. Less than a decade later, Kayano’s creative flair and ASICS’ powerhouse Gel cushioning combined to forge one of the brand’s most iconic and enduring silhouettes: the ASICS Gel-Kayano.

Keeping up with the competition

During the 1970s, the growth of recreational running drove demand for more high-tech footwear, and shoe cushioning underwent some serious improvements, particularly in the sporting sector. By the 1980s, ASICS’ main competitors had their own unique cushioning solutions, with Nike inventing Air technology and adidas introducing the Dellinger web system. In contrast, the Japanese brand’s designers were still relying primarily on foam, and although they were able to create popular models like the Epirus and the Alliance in 1985, it was clear that they would need to develop a more unique cushioning technology in order to keep up with the competition.

A new technology

The solution to this problem was the ASICS Gel System. When it arrived in 1986, the technology was described in the company’s catalogue as “using a semi-fluid, silicone based substance permanently encapsulated in pads” to “absorb greater impact forces and energy for each millimeter of thickness than either foams or encapsulated air.” In a further comparison to Nike’s rival Air technology, the same article stated that ASICS Gel remained stable during a range of different movements “because it can also absorb shearing forces (side-to-side motion) better than air.” In addition, the gel pads maintained their shape over long distances, therefore reducing leg fatigue and protecting against stress injuries, even after repeated use.

Toshikazu Kayano and the Gel-Kayano Trainer

In the years that followed, ASICS continued to produce high-quality running shoes to match those of its closest rivals, always relying on the incredible stability and shock-absorbing capacity of its Gel cushioning. Even with the dawn of Nike Air Max and the adidas Torsion System, ASICS Gel remained a well-regarded technology. Nevertheless, the company had to keep innovating, so they gave Toshikazu Kayano, who had already worked on popular models like the Gel-Saga, the task of producing a follow-up to the 1992 GT-Cool Xpress running shoe. Asked to create a high-performing, long-distance runner with a compelling design story that incorporated the brand’s most advanced technologies, he came up with a boundary-pushing design that came to be known as the Gel-Kayano Trainer.

Finding inspiration

To pull-off such an ambitious project, Kayano took inspiration from ASICS’ founder Kihachiro Onitsuka, whose designs were often influenced by nature. Thus, he turned his playful eye towards the natural world in the hopes of finding a distinctive animal with a story that would capture the hearts of the public. He eventually settled on the charismatic stag beetle. Often kept as a pet in his native Japan, this stout insect’s hard outer shell and enormous horn-like mandibles provided Kayano with the perfect narrative of stability and strength for a hard-wearing running trainer that could deliver long-lasting support over many miles. In line with this theme, he gave the shoe an equally powerful aesthetic so as to set the emotional tone, resulting in two key features: the Hytrel exoskeleton forming the stripes of the ASICS logo on the upper and the dynamic tread patterns on the outsole that resembled the shape of the stag beetle’s formidable mandibles.

A powerful sole unit

With the visual mood defined, Kayano moved on to the shoe’s technical features, imbuing it with the very best of ASICS’ technology. Its foundation was a dual density EVA midsole which provided lightweight support and good motion control. Housed within this was an ASICS Gel cushioning system consisting of two different types of the bouncy underfoot padding. The forefoot contained a soft pillow of porous P-Gel, while the heel had a supportive theta gel pad that was visible through a small window in the outsole. This combination of foam and gel delivered high levels of comfort alongside excellent shock absorption and stability.

An advanced design

On top of this, the Gel-Kayano Trainer was graced with other functional components, including an EVA orthotic sockliner, which gave great support but could be removed if necessary, a spandex Mono-Tongue fit system that connected the tongue to the rest of the stretchy upper to offer an enhanced, sock-like fit, and a Coolmax-lined synthetic suede outer that made the shoe pleasantly breathable. Meanwhile, the sturdy heel counter held the foot in place, the flex grooves in the outsole allowed natural movement of the foot, and the visually striking exoskeleton brought rigidity and structural support to the upper. Together, these elements made the Gel-Kayano Trainer what an ASICS catalogue of the time referred to as the brand’s “most advanced high-mileage shoe”.

A catchy title

When the Gel-Kayano Trainer was first released in 1993, its cutting-edge technology, insect-inspired aesthetic and high-performance build made it incredibly popular, both at home in Japan and abroad in Europe and the United States. ASICS had named the shoe after its designer in the hope that the catchy sounding moniker would be easy to pronounce in English-speaking communities, and after he created a follow-up in 1995, the brand chose to drop the ‘Trainer’ part, simply referring to it as the ASICS Gel-Kayano. Ever since, this memorable title has become synonymous with quality and comfort.

Kaizen

Over the next few years, ASICS and Toshikazu followed the Japanese principle of ‘kaizen’, which refers to the gradual and continuous improvement of function and process. After its inception in the late 1940s, kaizen was applied across various different Japanese industries with the aim of streamlining procedures and reducing waste. In terms of the Kayano line, this approach has engendered a constant evolution of the shoe’s performance and the manufacturing methods used to make it. According to Toshikazu, the kaizen philosophy also led to changes in the overall design process, with the early models being “aesthetically oriented”, later ones starting from “scientifically backed functions” and more recent iterations taking environmental concerns as their primary focus.

A variety of inspirations

Using this progressive approach, Toshikazu and his team developed new and improved versions of the Gel-Kayano each year, drawing on a wide range of inspirations from nature-based ones, such as the deadly praying mantis, to those centred around elements of Japanese culture like the samurai, and others including European sports cars, watches and even the anatomy of the human body. In fact, this last subject was the basis for one of the most beloved silhouettes from the line’s early years: the Gel-Kayano 5. 

The Gel-Kayano 5

Released in 1999, the Gel-Kayano 5 represented a shift towards visible technology, with its Gel cushioning revealed through two windows, one in the outsole, the other around the lateral heel. Its main innovation was the Duomax midsole support system, which combined a spongy foam through the centre with a firmer one on the medial side to deliver soft cushioning and reduce overpronation, thus stabilising the foot through each step. Just like the shoe’s Gel technology, the presence of Duomax was announced by large uppercase letters embossed onto the sole unit, which produced a bold aesthetic. Meanwhile, through the middle of the foot, the moulded Trusstic support system provided yet more stability, and the padded tongue gave plush comfort over the top, a stylish ASICS-branded patch placed in its centre. All of this made the Kayano 5 a great multipurpose shoe for running, walking and other athletic activities, and it remains a fan-favourite to this day.

A scientific approach

From then on, the Gel-Kayano range became much more scientifically focused and performance-oriented in its design thanks to a closer involvement with the ASICS Institute of Sports Science. Situated in Kobe, Japan, a short distance from the ASICS Corporation Headquarters, the ISS was founded in 1985. It grew out of the brand’s Technology Research Section and in 1990 was moved to a state-of-the-art research facility where the scientists were able to test out cutting-edge materials in a specially designed lab that could simulate different weather conditions to see how the footwear would perform in foreign climates. This gave the brand an edge over the competition, allowing its designers to collaborate personally with the scientists who were developing the materials they needed.

Toshikazu and the ISS

Working together with athletes, coaches and designers, and always with natural human movements in mind, the ISS brought a new perspective to the Gel-Kayano 6 in 2000. They updated its shape to offer better shock absorption, and fitted it with the brand’s new Impact Guidance System (IGS), which is an overall design schematic rather than one specific feature. Aimed at facilitating a more natural gait, the IGS included specialised components like a stability cradle around the heel, whose presence enhanced both control and fit. Moving into the new millennium, Toshikazu worked with the ISS to optimise his eponymous line of sports shoes, and the brand finally decided to start assigning numbers to each model with the release of the Gel-Kayano 7. According to an ASICS catalogue from the time, this design had “what many runners consider to be the most natural heel to toe transition ever experienced in a running shoe”, and was a full ounce lighter than the previous edition, making it even easier to move about in.

A branding change

As the years passed, the ISS and the principle of kaizen brought some bold changes to both the technology and the aesthetic of the sneaker line, one of the most striking of which was on the 2003 Gel-Kayano 9. Alongside its swooping overlays, Toshikazu chose to add his family name to the tongue patch in kanji characters. While this presented a unique style that was popular outside of Japan, the shoe was not available within ASICS’ home country as owner Kihachiro Onitsuka was worried that Kayano would be misconstrued as the new brand name. As a result, this was the only core model to have the eye-catching tongue patch, and the Gel-Kayano 10 returned to the more traditional branding the following year.

An Olympic model

Technologically, the 10th edition had a Speva midsole, which was both bouncier and more durable than other designs, and was the first to make use of the Biomorphic Fit system, which could be seen on the side of the forefoot between the front and midfoot panelling. This seemingly simple addition bolstered support around a part of the shoe that undergoes the most strain and deformation during movement, thus ensuring an improved fit and extra comfort while the foot is in motion. So impressive was this edition that it was chosen as the official shoe for the Japanese athletes attending the Athens Olympics in 2004.

The end of an era

Toshikazu remained an integral part of the Gel-Kayano design team throughout the next few iterations, introducing technologies like the Space Trusstic System, which facilitated more deformation of the midsole for efficient functioning of the foot, and Solyte cushioning, which was incredibly lightweight while also being highly durable and exceptionally springy. However, after producing another solid model with the Gel-Kayano 13 in 2007, the line’s legendary founder moved on to other things, eventually becoming a curator of ASICS’ rich archival history. 

The Gel-Kayano 14

In the absence of Toshikazu, the Gel-Kayano 14 required a new designer, and the brand picked out Hidenori Yamashita for the job. Working on the same principles as his predecessor, Yamashita made minor changes to the technology, for example adding a better-fitting memory foam to the heel, before turning his attention to the shoe’s aesthetic. Using the concept of ‘flash’ as a guide, he imagined the runner propelling themselves forward with each step and translated this energetic movement into all visual aspects of the shoe, from the intriguing textures to the dynamic shape of the overlays. This notion also informed his choice of colours, which were often vibrant and metallic, with eye-catching reflective elements included throughout the design. Runners adored the Gel-Kayano 14 for its unbeatable comfort and high-performance build, but the shoe’s striking appearance made it particularly memorable, and it became one of the most sought-after editions in the Kayano range.

An award-winning shoe

After its successor arrived in 2009, though, the 14th edition faded away. Like the Gel-Kayano 14, the 15 received awards for its performance running abilities, which were enhanced by the addition of yet more Gel cushioning and the introduction of an asymmetrical lacing system that reduced friction and improved fit by tracing the natural curve of the foot. While the brand had always released men’s and women’s versions of the Gel-Kayano, with the 15, the technology in each was adjusted to be gender-specific, resulting in an increase in female fans. Up until that point, the sales had been dominated by male runners, but the 2009 figures represented an almost even split.

A shift in priorities

Models 16 and 17 followed a similar structure to the Gel-Kayano 15, but the release of the 18 in 2012 signalled another kaizen-inspired shift in the brand’s priorities. With global awareness of environmental issues growing, ASICS decided to seek the help of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) to reduce the impact of its latest shoe on the planet. This more ethical stance has since superseded the aesthetic and technological approaches taken on earlier models as the number one priority of each new Gel-Kayano design.

Celebrating a landmark

In 2013, ASICS celebrated the 20-year history of the Gel-Kayano with its 20th iteration. Created by experienced running footwear designer Yoshiyasu Ando, who had joined the company in 2004, the shoe was packed with two decades of the most advanced technologies. Once again, it followed the IGS system, with Gel cushioning in forefoot and heel and a Guidance Line through the centre to balance the weight of the wearer. It also had a Dynamic Duomax midsole that used FluidRide and SpEVA 55 lasting with variable density foams to provide better stability and support, a dual-layered mesh upper woven together from lightweight fibres to make it soft and breathable, and a new FluidFit component comprising a web of welded overlays fused to the upper to provide a snug, flexible fit and excellent lockdown. This last element showed the urban inspirations behind the design of the Gel-Kayano 20, which gave it a unique architectural aesthetic and made it popular for its looks as well as its performance.

Constant innovation

Ando stayed on as the primary designer of the Gel-Kayano series for the next few models, helping make the 21 considerably lighter and more comfortable than its predecessors thanks to its updated FluidRide technology, and introducing a seamless engineered mesh onto the upper of the 22 for improved breathability and even less weight. To the 23, he added Flytefoam Propel technology, whose avant garde construction incorporated a newly developed TPS elastomer made from lightweight foam that delivered high energy return and gave the runner a more energetic step without compromising on durability. This bouncy underfoot padding was carried over onto both the 24 and the 25, which was well-liked for its sleeker, more streamlined design, its sock-like fit and its kimono-inspired aesthetic. However, the Gel-Kayano 25 wasn’t the only model to be released in 2018; this was the year that ASICS began returning to some of the most popular silhouettes in the series, beginning with a true classic: the Gel-Kayano 5.

The return of a classic

During the mid-to-late 2010s, a nostalgia developed for retro sneakers, including the mesh-covered, metallic-overlaid sporting shoes of the Y2K era and the so-called dad shoes of the 80s and 90s. When ASICS rereleased the Gel-Kayano 5 in 2018, it fit somewhere in between the two, with its practical build of old technologies like Duomax and new ones like Quadra-lacing providing high levels of comfort. Alongside this, its chunky sole unit, layered upper and vintage branding marked it out as the perfect dad shoe for the normcore trend.

Celebrations and nostalgia

The brand honoured the new Gel-Kayano 5 and its Japanese roots by throwing a party at Berlin’s IPSE nightclub, which is located at the centre of the vibrant and eclectic Kreuzberg neighbourhood on the banks of the River Spree. With the beauty of the river on one side and the buzz of the city on the other, an eclectic group of sneaker enthusiasts, streetwear aficionados and fashionistas came together to celebrate the Gel-Kayano 5, helping to launch the retro silhouette in style. Meanwhile, a broader advertising campaign played on the nostalgic feelings of the time by putting out product images that recalled those seen in 90s magazines, with old-school slogans like “You can’t spell classics without ASICS.” and “Run like its 99. Literally.” At the bottom of one advert were the words: “For the ASICS dealer nearest you, visit the World Wide Web.” – a fond reminder of the early days of the internet for those who experienced it and an amusing snapshot of history for those too young to have been there. 

Alternative models

One year after its return, ASICS created two alternative versions of the Gel-Kayano 5: the 5.1 and the 5 360. The 5.1 had a faster shape than the original and was built with up-to-date materials that significantly dropped its weight and increased comfort. Meanwhile, the 360 was more of a hybrid sneaker with the basic form of the 1999 edition and the modern cushioning of the Gel-Quantum 360, which has a 360-degree Gel midsole and Flytefoam technology for maximum shock absorption and support.

Inspirational collaborations

This inventive reworking of the Gel-Kayano 5 caught the attention of Angelo Baque and his streetwear label, Awake NY, leading to a pair of stylish collaborative editions of the 360 update. Drawn to ASICS because of the brand’s popularity amongst the diverse youth of Paris, Baque created a silver and green colourway inspired by his childhood wanderings in New York, its metallic colours directly influenced by the stainless steel Unisphere in the city’s Flushing Meadows Corona Park. Alongside this, he designed a gold and black version based on the warm glow of Parisian street lights as the French capital turns from day to night. At the same time, the OG Kayano 5 was featured in several high-end collaborations of its own, including one with Berlin clothing label GmbH and another with influential fashion designer Vivienne Westwood.

The Gel-Kayano 26 and Vivienne Westwood

Before long, Vivienne Westwood was involved in a collaboration on the main Gel-Kayano line as ASICS delved into its archives to see what could be learned to make its flagship model an even more effective piece of athletic footwear. This resulted in the Gel-Kayano 26 having updated Gel technology and a heel clutch system that improved stability and protected the foot from injury. While the general release version was a high-tech running shoe, Westwood’s collaborative sneaker was a unique fashion item inspired by the 1980s New Romantic period of her early days in fashion, when she made a series of sack shoes for a collection based on Victorian-era styles. In 2020, she used this to give the Gel-Kayano 26 a completely different look, crafting two monochromatic colourways with durable Ripstop nylon on the upper shrouded in a distinctive mesh netting that could be pulled tight using an adjustable toggle fastening system.

Another fan-favourite silhouette returns

The legendary British designer then went on to create a collaborative version of the Gel-Kayano 27, this time infusing it with a DIY aesthetic that celebrated the craftsmanship involved in its design while also using durable materials to make it a powerful piece of footwear both physically and visually. Alongside this, ASICS released what is perhaps its most popular retro model to date: the Gel-Kayano 14. At first, the brand’s executives had discussed relaunching the Gel-Kayano 13, but they were persuaded to take a different course by Bulgarian menswear designer Kiko Kostadinov, who had become a trusted fashion consultant since first working with them in 2018. As such, they respected his opinion and therefore listened when he suggested that the futuristic aesthetic of the Gel-Kayano 14 gave it a powerful feeling of speed and made it a more dynamic choice. Following Kostadinov’s advice, Hidenori Yamashita was recalled to rework his original design, decorating it with a mix of airy mesh, shimmering metallic overlays and colourful highlights. Its Y2K stylings made the revamped Gel-Kayano 14 the ideal sneaker for the prevailing fashion trends of the time, and it became even more desirable than the 2008 version.

Pushing the boundaries of technology and design

Over the next few years, ASICS introduced yet more innovative technologies into the series, adding FF Blast cushioning to the Gel-Kayano 28. This light, bouncy material delivered high levels of energy-return, and was upgraded to FF Blast Plus on the 29, which was 19% lighter than the previous edition. While these comfort-giving updates made each new Gel-Kayano a popular sporting choice, the heritage style of the Gel-Kayano 14 saw it become a must-have lifestyle sneaker. It became particularly sought-after as a collaborative template, which began with a four-piece set from Kiko Kostadinov in 2020, before Angelo Baque crafted his own vibrantly coloured design in 2021, and American DJ Zack Bia celebrated the opening of his music label, Field Trip Recordings, with a captivating black and white colourway in 2022.  Perhaps the most successful of all Gel-Kayano 14 partnerships, though, was the 2022 one with Justin Saunders’ creative design studio, JJJJound, which produced two classy silver colourways decorated with sophisticated dual branding.

30 years of the Gel-Kayano

In 2023, as the Gel-Kayano 14 was slowly establishing itself as one of the most iconic sneakers in the entire series via more stylish collaborations with the likes of atmos, KITH, Aritzia and Unaffected, ASICS celebrated the line’s 30th year with the Gel-Kayano 30. Its designers were mindful of the environment, making the upper from at least 75% recycled materials and the FF Blast Plus Eco foam from roughly 20% bio-based material, while also dyeing the sockliner using a process that consumed 33% less water and cut carbon emissions by 45% compared to traditional methods. They also filled it with high-tech features, adding a durable Ahar Plus heel plug, an engineered stretch knit upper and the most up-to-date PureGEL cushioning, which was 65% softer than the brand’s previous gels. The sole unit was fitted with a new 4D Guidance System that adapted to the form of the individual runner, providing balance and guiding the foot smoothly through each step.

A special celebration

Alongside the release of the Gel-Kayano 30, ASICS chose to honour the history of its flagship running shoe with a special model called the Gel-Kayano Legacy. Its designer was Yuuki Okumura, who had already been involved in the creation of several Gel-Kayano silhouettes since joining the company in 2013, making him a great individual to bring together different aspects of the line’s past. His design incorporated aesthetic components from key Gel-Kayano styles, including the original Gel-Kayano Trainer, as well as those technologies which represented significant milestones in its development. Each colourway was also based on one from the archives, and the Gel-Kayano Legacy became a powerful celebration of the entire series.

Reimagining the Gel-Kayano 20

By this point, the Gel-Kayano retro releases were becoming as popular as each new iteration, and 2024 saw the return of yet another heritage model: 2013’s Gel-Kayano 20. It arrived through a stunning collaboration with luxury French fashion brand Kenzo, which was founded by late Japanese designer Kenzo Takada in the 1970s. Since 2021, another Japanese fashion designer, Nigo, has served as Kenzo’s artistic director, and it was he who produced three memorable lifestyle sneakers for the collection. Two featured faux fur decorated in tiger stripes as a reference to both brands, while the other was covered in a mosaic of colourful panels, each with a distinctive pattern embossed onto it. 

Ronnie Fieg and the Gel-Kayano 12.1

Later that year, Ronnie Fieg and his New York-based lifestyle brand KITH brought back yet another heritage model in a timeless collaboration involving a hybrid silhouette known as the Gel-Kayano 12.1. This combined Toshikazu Kayano’s 2006 Gel-Kayano 12 with a 2015 ASICS marathon shoe called the Gel-Nimbus 17 to give the best of both worlds. Its blend of mesh, metallics and colourful highlights made it another classy Y2K-style sneaker, while the Kayano’s distinctive tongue patch from the Gel-Kayano 9 made a return on the left shoe, and the right one featured the word “friend” in kanji characters as a reference to Fieg’s Kith and Kin brand slogan.

A technological masterpiece

While these collaborations brought the Gel-Kayano success in the world of fashion, ASICS’ sports scientists and shoe experts were still hard at work evolving the main Kayano line, and in 2024, they released the brand’s most technologically proficient running shoe to date: the Gel-Kayano 31. Like its predecessor, it was built for stability and support, with an improved 4D Guidance System, PureGEL cushioning, FF Blast Plus Eco foam, an engineered mesh upper, an OrthoLite X-55 sockliner, reflective elements and a new hybrid ASICSGrip outsole that delivered more traction than ever before. This incredibly futuristic design is a testament to the brand’s enduring ambition to develop the very best sporting footwear for the most hard-working athletes.

The timeless Gel-Kayano

For more than three decades, the Gel-Kayano has wowed runners and sneaker fans alike with its innovative shoe designs, which have always pushed technology to the limits to achieve the highest levels of stability, comfort and support. While the series was so long regarded as just a sporting one, in more recent times, it has found a place amongst the echelons of high fashion through a multitude of creative collaborations with some of the biggest names in the business. At its core, though, the Gel-Kayano remains a product of Toshikazu Kayano’s inventive mind and playful spirit, both of which have infused the series with a timeless appeal that will endure for many years to come.