New Balance 990

A revamped brand

Boston-based footwear brand New Balance was established over 100 years ago, but it wasn’t until the company was purchased by young entrepreneur Jim Davis in 1972 that it really began to take off. Its previous owners had been making running shoes since the early 1960s, and while Davis expanded the brand’s range to include leisurewear as well, he continued to produce athletic footwear, taking advantage of the running craze that gripped the United States throughout the 70s and 80s. At the time, New Balance had its base in Boston, which happened to be at the centre of this new trend. This allowed Davis to grow the company and greatly expand its workforce from the six employees he had acquired when taking over. By the late 70s, he had assembled a team of highly skilled researchers, developers and footwear designers. With this group of innovative experts in place, his revamped brand was ready to produce one of the most iconic silhouettes in sneaker history: the New Balance 990.

A bold plan

It was in the spring of 1978 that members of the New Balance Research and Development department approached Davis with their plan to create an exceptional running shoe. In order to ensure that they could achieve this goal, they made a bold request – to be given the freedom to work without any constraints on either time or money. Being an ambitious man himself, Davis immediately endorsed the project, and the team got to work on the groundbreaking silhouette that would thrust the brand into a new era of success.

A perfect balance

After almost four years of hard graft, the New Balance design team had a finished prototype in-hand, and arrangements were put in place for a 1982 release. The shoe they presented to Davis was packed with technology and provided the perfect combination of support and flexibility – something quite unique for the time. According to an early catalogue advert for the 990, while footwear designers generally had these two attributes in mind, they usually failed to get the balance right, ending up with shoes that had one or the other but not both. In contrast, the 990 offered “extraordinary flexibility without the slightest sacrifice of support.” 

A technologically advanced design

Several features allowed the shoe to attain this sought-after blend, not least the brand’s patented Motion Control Device, which was “made of strong, yet supple polyurethane” so that it cradled the heel without being too restrictive on movement. This supportive component was so well-devised that New Balance still uses it today. With the heel taken care of, the rest of the upper was “constructed just like a slipper”, which is what gave the 990 its unrivalled flexibility. Free from concerns about time or money, the team was also able to invest in a technically demanding slip-lasting method, producing an incredibly comfortable shoe that, as the catalogue stated, “fits better, feels better and gives you more flexibility.” Underfoot, the Superflex outsole resisted wear and tear “nearly 30% better than conventional soling materials”, and its “innovative carbon rubber heel pad” improved durability in this high-use area. Meanwhile, the midsole was “made of three different layers of EVA” for maximum shock absorption and comfort. Finally, New Balance continued its trademark focus on “width-sizing”, which was exclusive to the brand at the time, making the 990 available “in a variety of widths, for a more perfect fit.”

A record-breaking price tag

Producing such a high-tech running shoe was an expensive business, especially since New Balance was known for manufacturing its products in the United States rather than taking advantage of the cheap labour markets available abroad like some other footwear brands of the time. Accordingly, this meant that the 990 had to be sold at a higher price, and New Balance broke new ground by making it the first $100 running shoe. Setting the price so high was somewhat risky considering no other brand was charging as much, and many doubted whether anyone would be willing to pay that much for a running shoe. In the end, the move actually worked in the company’s favour. The marketing team, who had already devised a clever slogan: “On a scale of 1000, this shoe is a 990”, leaned into the price, stating in their advertising that “When you’re paying as much for a running shoe as the 990 costs, you have a right to expect it to wear well.” Thanks to the hard work of the New Balance design team, it did, meaning that the country’s growing band of runners were more than willing to pay that little bit extra for its elevated quality. Meanwhile, outside of the sporting world, the shoe was popular amongst casual wearers for its excellent fit and comfortable feel, but it was also seen as a status symbol; after all, being able to afford a pair of 100-dollar sneakers showed a certain level of wealth.

Unexpected success

When it was released in 1982, the New Balance 990 stood out from the typically colourful running shoes of the day with its urban colour scheme and Terry Heckler’s large N logo on its sidewalls, both of which became signature features of future versions. Davis had projected that the company would sell around 5000 pairs, but the actual results far exceeded his expectations. It became an instant success as more than 10 times the predicted number were purchased in the shoe’s first year, propelling the brand to new heights. Runners were wowed by what a magazine article from the time described as “the most technologically advanced running shoe on the market”. The same article recommended the 990 “for devoted runners seeking the optimal combination of flexibility and motion control”, stating that its “sophisticated combination of protection, comfort and motion control” comes “without the slightest inhibition of the foot’s natural range of motion.”

Experimenting with technology

These attributes continued to make the 990 a popular choice in the years that followed, and Davis built on this success by developing a series of similar-looking models, which were released during a ten year period from 1986 to 1996 and numbered from 995 to 999. Each one gave New Balance’s designers a chance to experiment with new technologies that would eventually make their way onto the 990 itself. Throughout this time, however, the 1982 original remained the same, and it wasn’t until 1998 that Davis finally chose to give the beloved sneaker its first technological update.

A second version

The New Balance 990v2 was both visually and technologically different to the original 990, but its fundamental use of breathable mesh and soft suede panelling on the upper marked it out as an evolution of the 1982 classic. Nevertheless, the overall arrangement and shape of the overlays had been altered to make it a little sleeker and show off a touch more of the mesh. An additional overlay could also be seen framing the forefoot, thus bringing more depth to the aesthetic, while reflective elements had been applied to parts of the toe, sidewalls and heel. The biggest innovation introduced on the second version of the 990 was the shock-absorbing ABZORB midsole, whose blend of high-quality foams provided even better cushioning underfoot. As well as enhancing its performance, the ABZORB sole unit gave the 990v2 a completely different visual character, with a more curvaceous profile and a sealed bubble of cushioning protruding from the heel that actually put the technology on show. On top of this, slip-resistant rubber was used on the complex tread patterns of the grippy outsole, the tongue had thicker padding to reduce lace pressure, and some of the branding effects were embroidered on for an even more finely crafted look.

Another long wait

Although the enhanced technology of the 990v2 made it a popular sequel, fans of the line had to wait a number of years before it was iterated on once again, during which time the 991, 992 and 993 models were added to the broader series. Then, in 2012, New Balance released the third edition of the 990. This symbolic year marked the silhouette’s 30th anniversary, by which point it had developed what the New York Times described as “a cult following”. Its success was partly due to its versatility, which saw it become popular on college campuses, earning it the nickname ‘frat cruiser’. It was also favoured amongst a slightly older demographic, who enjoyed the levels of comfort it provided, and many celebrities were fans of its functional build and uncomplicated style, including Steve Jobs, who famously favoured models from the 990 series.

A new model with new technology

The man behind the New Balance 990v3 was Senior Designer of Performance Running Andrew Nyssen. Having been with the company for less than a decade, he brought a fresh perspective to the 990, evolving its look and switching up its technological makeup once more. It had an even sleeker upper than its predecessor, with yet more of the breathable mesh layer revealed by the rounded shape of the suede overlays. The technology in the sole unit had also been modified, with an ENCAP midsole taking the place of the ABZORB cushioning from the 990v2. Consisting of a polyurethane frame with a lightweight slab of soft EVA foam inside, this alternative cushioning system provided more stability to the foot while still delivering excellent levels of comfort. Meanwhile, a carbon fibre shank had been inserted beneath the arch for additional support, and hard-wearing Ndurance rubber appeared on the outsole, which had been redesigned to deliver even better traction than before. Aesthetically, the branding had been modified again as the N logo on each flank was slightly larger with a strongly defined outline that made it bold and eye-catching. The tongue was also puffier, and its textured surface displayed a striking set of ‘New Balance USA’ text. All of this gave the 990v3 added style, while the powerful underfoot support meant that it was still effective as a running shoe, which is perhaps why it became one of the most successful of all 990 models.

Chris Davis and the ‘dad shoe’ trend

Not long after the 990v3 was released, New Balance began to undergo a shift in focus. As owner, Jim Davis had always resisted the idea of repackaging the brand’s sporting models as lifestyle shoes, with his primary desire being to focus on technical performance rather than fashion. However, his son Chris, who had joined the company in 2008, had different ideas. As he climbed higher in the business, Chris began to have more influence, and gradually he changed his father’s approach, taking the brand, and the 990, in a new direction. As a result, when the fourth version of the silhouette came out in 2016, it was made with the emerging ‘dad shoe’ trend in mind. This nostalgic style was associated with those of the 80s and 90s, when shoes tended to have thicker soles and a greater emphasis on everyday comfort. During the same period, the Normcore aesthetic, whose proponents favoured functional footwear with a timeless appearance, was also on the rise, making the timing of Chris’ decision even better. 

The 990v4

Since the 990 model had always retained its classic 80s aesthetic, not much work was needed for the v4 to align with the fashion trends of the mid-late 2010s. As a result, it looked quite similar to its predecessor, with a few minor adjustments to the shape of the suede and mesh panelling of the upper, the branding effects and the tread pattern of the outsole, which featured even more Ndurance rubber. It retained the durable but supportive ENCAP sole, and its carbon fibre shank had been swapped out for an equally supportive yet more flexible plastic one. These comfortable, practical features made the 990v4 an excellent choice for everyday wear, while its dad shoe aesthetic appealed to a broad audience, from casual sneaker fans to anyone looking for a trendy and reliable piece of footwear.

A prosperous time

The success of the 990v4 coincided with a more general period of prosperity for New Balance that led to a whole host of stunning collaborations. Some of the most notable were a classic 990v2 designed by American lifestyle brand Kith, a dapper 990v3 created with collaborative design studio JJJJound and an elegant 990v4 made in partnership with legendary fashion house Stussy. 

Building on success

These collaborations brought the 990 range more and more fans, and it wasn’t long before a fifth version was added to the collection as the brand built on this renewed growth. Arriving in 2019, the primary innovation on the 990v5 was a TPU power strap that delivered exceptional ankle support while maintaining the overall flexibility that the series is so well-known for. Underfoot, the comfort provided by the ENCAP midsole was enhanced further by a spongy Ortholite insole, and the outsole was made using blown rubber so that it was more lightweight and flexible. To make up for the fact that this material was less durable than standard rubber, many of the redesigned traction pads featured hard-wearing Ndurance rubber, which was now a staple of the 990 series. Aesthetically, the v5 looked like a combination of the four previous iterations with updated branding that included a reflective flag emblem on the tongue and a more slender N logo on the sidewalls.

Worn by supermodels and dads

To accompany the release of the 990v5, New Balance launched a shrewd advertising campaign with taglines such as “Made for those with high standards” and “The best kept secret in sneakers”. The most memorable slogan played on the fact that the 990 could now be seen on the feet of everyone from fashion-conscious celebrities to comfort-seeking fathers, stating that it was “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio”. Not only did this phrase continue to capitalise on the dad shoe trend, which was still in full flow in the late 2010s, it also referenced the 990’s celebrity connections. Contemporary fashion influencers like model Kaia Gerber began wearing the v5 in public, and in the early 2020s, it appeared all over social media thanks to well-known fans such as Timothée Chalamet and Zoë Kravitz.

New creative partners

Building on the collaborations of the late 2010s, New Balance sought out new creative partners to craft unique v5 colourways. Comme des Garcons’ innovative designer Junya Watanabe was one of the first, revealing two stylish versions in early 2019. These were followed by standout partnerships with pro basketball player Kawhi Leonard and New-York clothing designer Engineered Garments. One of the most important collaborations, though, was with Teddy Santis’ lifestyle brand Aimé Leon Dore as it paved the way for a relationship that was even deeper and more fruitful.

Recruiting Teddy Santis

Across 2019 and 2020, Aimé Leon Dore worked on three different projects with New Balance as Santis brought his brand’s New York influences to the 997, 990v2 and 990v5 silhouettes. Through these, the two developed a strong relationship, culminating in Santis being named Creative Director of New Balance’s Made in USA line in April 2021. One year later, the Greek-American fashion designer released the first collection in his new role. In it, he delved deep into the heritage of the 990 range, reimagining models 1 through 3 and imbuing them with his trademark nostalgic style. His work helped to present the best of the brand to the world, and Santis’ Made in USA department became a crucial part of New Balance’s success in the early 2020s. In 2023, he continued to expand the collection with his own take on the v4 before turning his attention to the newest member of the series: the 990v6.

Improving performance on the 990v6

The New Balance 990v6 first came out in late 2022 as the brand sought to give its most iconic silhouette yet another technological refresh. Arriving in the same urban tones as all prior launch models, which range from elegant white through various shades of grey to deep black, the v6 was founded on the abiding principles of the 990 line – to create the very best product possible. As such, the most up-to-date innovations were added to the sleek silhouette, with the sole unit in particular receiving a comfort-boosting update. A new high-performance foam known as FuelCell was added to the midsole alongside the ever-reliable ENCAP cushioning. Originally introduced to New Balance’s elite running shoes in 2019, this highly responsive foam combines nitrogen-infused TPU with EVA to offer exceptional levels of energy return and comfort in a lightweight, durable package. On top of this, the upper revealed more mesh than ever before as the suede overlays were reduced through the midfoot, bringing further breathability along the flanks. This change also gave the v6 a distinctive aesthetic, especially since the N logo was now placed directly over the mesh underlay for the very first time in 990 history. Underfoot, the outsole remained as grippy and durable as ever thanks to its carefully designed tread pattern and Ndurance rubber coating.

Exciting collaborations

With its curvaceous overlays, streamlined design and supportive features, the 990v6 represented the very best of New Balance when it was launched, making it incredibly popular in the years that followed. Teddy Santis put his own unique mark on the v6 by designing a series of stylish colourways, and the silhouette attracted exciting new partnerships with high-fashion brands like Carhartt WIP, WTAPS and Kith, as well as renowned New Balance collaborator Joe Freshgoods. Some of the most sought-after collaborative versions of the 990v6 were created with eccentric rapper Action Bronson, who designed two memorable colourways in 2023, and luxury Italian fashion label Loro Piana, whose elegant offering was limited to a mere 1000 pairs, making it highly desirable.

Locally manufactured, globally adored

When the New Balance 990 first came out in 1982, it pushed the limits of performance running shoes, challenging the industry to produce more technologically advanced footwear for all types of runners. It helped establish a strong identity for New Balance during a time when the company demonstrated clear values by committing to domestic production over the exploitation of cheap foreign labour. This showed a wider dedication to quality that the brand is still known for today. The 990 has always been associated with this level of excellence, and its designers have always been careful in how they update the sneaker, ensuring to maintain the highest standards at all times. When asked about the original 990 in 2018, Chris Davis described it as the perfect example of New Balance’s ‘Fearlessly Independent’ ethos, which has allowed the brand to embrace its quirks and show off its own distinct identity. Following this ethos, Davis has given the 990 incredibly broad appeal, and today it is popular amongst all different types of people around the world, with many considering it to be one of the most iconic sneakers in history.