Vomero

A strong legacy

Nike is founded upon a history of high-performance running shoes that goes as far back as the 1960s. Illustrious brand co-founder Bill Bowerman started things off with classic trainers like the Cortez, and it was his design legacy that set the standards in comfort, durability and speed for future silhouettes like the ever-reliable Pegasus and the stability focused Structure. By the early 2000s, both of these were well-established franchises, but Nike wanted to add a plush, luxurious shoe to its sportswear collection. Thus a new silhouette was created around the concept of maximum cushioning and epic levels of comfort. Its name was the Nike Vomero.

The right man for the job

Like many periods in Nike’s history, the early 2000s was a time of innovation as the brand sought to build on 90s technologies like Zoom Air. During the 1990s, much of this invention had come from the basketball division, and it was a former member of the Nike Basketball team called Aaron Cooper who developed the key concepts behind the Vomero. Cooper’s background and experience made him the perfect person to design a comfort-focused running shoe. His father a priest and his mother a social activist, he had learned open-mindedness and a strong sense of empathy, with creativity coming from his mother’s side of the family, which consisted of photographers, illustrators and other talented people, some of whom had been involved with the highly regarded Smithsonian research institute. Meanwhile, his grandfather had been an Olympic rower, which gave him a healthy respect for athleticism and led to a keen interest in BMX racing in his youth.

A tenacious spirit

While studying industrial design at university, Cooper decided to apply for some internships to improve his future job prospects, and Nike was one of the companies he wanted to work for. At the time, the brand had no internship programme for designers, so Cooper’s teachers told him to look elsewhere, but his tenacious spirit shone through, and he contacted Nike directly to see if they would take him on. After several months of trying, he finally convinced the brand to take him on as its first ever design intern, and in 1994 he was hired as a full-time designer. For the next decade, Cooper was an important member of the Basketball Division throughout one of the most exciting periods in its history.

Working with the stars

During this time, Cooper worked with some of the biggest names in the sport, including 11-time All-Star Charles Barkley and 6-time NBA champion Scottie Pippen, for whom he created multiple signature basketball shoes. In the early 2000s, he was involved in Nike’s experimental Alpha Project, developing innovative silhouettes like 2003’s Nike Zoom Ultraflight with fellow designer Eric Avar, and was influential in the early years of the LeBron James partnership. Cooper then moved to Amsterdam as part of an EMEA Design ‘Pod’ whose task was to gather insights from local athletes and sporting communities so they could be used to create new products. It was here that he came up with the idea for the Nike Vomero.

Key learnings

Throughout his time at Nike Basketball, Cooper had built on the foundations of his childhood, discovering the benefits of empathising with the people he was designing for and putting their needs above profits. He also realised the importance of being grounded in a product-first philosophy and forging a symbiosis between science and art by focusing on function ahead of form. Lastly, he became acutely aware of the inspirational power of story. 

The ideal location and an ambitious goal

With these principles in mind, Cooper engaged with the people he was designing the running shoe for to find out what they needed most. He was based in the perfect city for this as Amsterdam’s rich culture of running went back many decades to the 1928 summer Olympics, when the marathon had captured the imagination of local runners. In 1975, the Amsterdam Marathon was established, eventually being elevated to the level of a Platinum Label global event, of which there are just a few. A passionate running community developed around it, and the city became a popular location for road race enthusiasts. From them, Cooper learned that athletes across Amsterdam, The Netherlands and Europe more broadly were crying out for a shoe with premium cushioning. Thus, he set himself a design brief to create “The most luxurious and comfortable running shoe in the industry. Fantastic ride and reliability. The BMW 7 series. Bowerman Deluxe.”

An experiential designer

Although his goal was ambitious, Cooper was supported by a talented team of driven, world-class designers, but, as a self-professed “experiential designer”, he wanted to test out the running experience himself. Just as he had used his empathic ear to gather information from the people, he harnessed his own athleticism to get into the mindset of the runner and feel the shoe as they did. Setting himself the challenge of running five miles in under thirty minutes, he got to understand exactly what was required to provide both comfort and speed, especially for somebody as tall and well-built as he was.

A proposed design

Using athlete insights and combining them with his own personal experience and his significant knowledge of footwear design and foot performance, Cooper and his team honed in on their design brief, prioritising comfort and speed while also looking to other Nike models for inspiration. Early sketches depicted a shoe called the Air Nirvana – the name Cooper originally chose as it represented the shoe’s ability to deliver a quick yet cloud-like running experience. One particularly detailed design drawing revealed many of his hopes for the silhouette, describing its upper as “super plush but highly breathable”, with a “lofty and pillow-like mesh” across the tongue, forefoot and quarter. Strategic support was to be added through the midfoot via a “flexible” and “form-fitting” webbing, while an “injection molded heel counter” based on the one from Nike’s classic Mercurial football boot would reinforce the back of the foot, bringing stability and lockdown. The midsole would offer cushioning and flexibility through a “broad and supportive” geometry, with an “island” on the medial side “for arch support” and a “carved out” heel that showed off the “ghost image” of the “soft foam tuned bag”. A “visi-window” inspired by the Nike Structure 8 that “tapers off for a better engineered performance” would also reveal this Zoom Air unit, its large, flexible design aimed at absorbing “as much initial shock as possible” and providing a responsive step. Both heel and forefoot airbags were to be “bottom loaded”, with a soft lid of Phylon foam covering the “entire footbed” and a “firm phylon ‘frame’” producing a balance of comfort and durability. Cooper’s proposed outsole featured a “‘tech’ waffle” design which took its cues from Bill Bowerman’s “traditional waffle” sole “for outstanding grip”, using “BRS or newer/better durable rubber” that could support many miles of running. The medial section would wrap around the midfoot island, helping to disperse the runner’s load, support “against weight impact” and facilitate smooth transitions. It would also incorporate “flex groove placements” influenced by Cooper’s experience of working on the Nike Free project – which led to a successful line of barefoot running shoes – making it “highly flexible”. Lastly, the Birkenstock-like sockliner, which was designed using “some learnings” taken from basketball as well, would be “fully molded” to the contours of the last “for engineered comfort”.

Total Nirvana

In line with Cooper’s design philosophy, the Nirvana’s form emerged from its function, with “bright” colours on the outsole highlighting how the foot of a neutral runner would transition from heel strike to toe off. The upper was said to have “smooth flowing design lines derived from fit and comfort solutions”, while the midsole had a “smooth and contoured” look with an “organic” and “pillow-like” aspect to the heel and forefoot. It was hoped that this bold aesthetic would help the Nirvana stand out on the shelf, drawing runners to take a closer look, where they would be “engaged by its intuitive performance elements and design detailing.” On picking it up, they would be surprised by how lightweight it was for “a shoe that looks this supportive”, encouraging them to try it on and slip into “360 degree plush comfort”. Cooper stated that the runner would “immediately notice a luxurious footbed”, which would make them “eager to get on the treadmill to find something wrong with the shoe.” However, their disbelief would only increase on discovering that the heel was shock-absorbing, the midfoot “surprisingly supportive” and the forefoot “incredibly responsive” yet “still soft”. Cooper ended his description of the shoe’s overall experience with the runner’s thoughts: “This shoe is like running on clouds, but I feel fast! The ride and transition is so smooth! This shoe is total Nirvana! Thank you, Nike!!”

The final product

Although the Air Nirvana moniker failed to make it to the final product, being replaced by the name of a hilltop district in the bustling Italian city of Naples, many of the performance elements outlined in Cooper’s sketch did. Inspired by a “layered jacket”, the Vomero’s upper featured various synthetic leather panels stacked up over a base of breathable mesh. The supportive midfoot webbing derived its structure from ribcage-like bands and a sleek Swoosh, while large perforation holes in the sturdy heel counter, protective toe cap and sidewall overlays brought extra ventilation. A focus on plush padding also remained, with the heel, collar and tongue being particularly well-cushioned for solid lockdown and a snug, comfortable fit. Underfoot, the sole unit evoked “luxury performance” through the use of enhanced Cushlon foam, which had been developed specifically to produce the Vomero’s smooth running experience. Enclosed within this supportive foam was a full-length Zoom Air unit that delivered high levels of energy return and bounce, and underfoot the hard-wearing rubber outsole was lined with Free-inspired grooves for flexibility as well as grip.

An appealing list of attributes

When it was released in 2006, the Nike Vomero became the first and only “insight-to-globally-distributed-shoe” not to be designed in the brand’s world headquarters. Lauded for its plush comfort and surprising speed, early adverts described it as having “Fantastic cushioning yet a responsive ride” while also being “Supportive yet flexible” and “Lightweight yet protective”, suggesting that people would want to “run in these shoes day after day.” This appealing list of contradictions showed that the Vomero was redefining what a running shoe could do, and it was later added to Nike’s Bowerman Series – a commemorative collection of technically proficient athletic footwear whose construction exemplified the legendary designer’s principles. These stated that a shoe should be lightweight, well-fitting (both in terms of feel and purpose) and durable enough to “go the distance”. With its comfort-focused features and hardy materials, Cooper’s Vomero certainly met the last two, but it was also remarkably lightweight for its chunky, cushioned build, making it a perfect addition to the series. It also fit in with some of the brand’s other design conventions, such as visibly highlighting key technologies, which was achieved with contrasting bright blue and metallic silver tones on the stylish release colourway.

Establishing the Vomero line

Following the success of the first silhouette, Nike established the Vomero line alongside its other popular running shoes franchises like the Pegasus. While the Peg acted as a reliable all-rounder, the Vomero’s niche was plush cushioning and comfort: attributes that were carried over to the next few models in the series. In 2007, the Zoom Vomero 2 enhanced these properties in several ways, introducing gender-specific versions for even greater support. To the men’s model, they added a semi-rigid sockliner to cradle the foot more effectively, a wider last to accommodate a broader range of foot types, thicker outsole rubber that improved durability and a larger Zoom Air bag in the heel for comprehensive cushioning. On the women’s model, the redesigned upper included a contoured heel that would hold the foot more securely in place, and the sockliner was slightly thicker for a more cushioned underfoot experience. Both were aimed primarily at neutral runners with good biomechanics who wanted to feel soft, plush support beneath their feet.

The early models

Many runners became fans of the Vomero line in its early years, and the first five models were particularly well-received. The Vomero 3 was hailed as one of the best-cushioned running shoes when it came out in 2008, so the Vomero 4 took the same sole unit and added a plastic midfoot shank that stabilised the foot by guiding it through each step. It also had a special opening in the midsole for the new Nike+ computer chip – a data collection device which could connect to the wearer’s iPod to feed back information about their running performance such as mileage and pace. Visually, the first four shoes were fairly similar, but 2011’s Vomero 5 set a new standard for running aesthetics thanks to its sleek, dynamic design, which included a highly breathable mesh upper, an updated midfoot saddle that was stylish and supportive, an anatomically shaped heel counter with structured triangular openings for added ventilation, bold sidewall Swooshes, swooping overlays and distinctive reflective bands. Its updated midfoot delivered a smoother transition through the foot, while its heel and forefoot Zoom Air cushions and plush dual-density foam midsole truly maximised comfort. For these reasons, the Vomero 5 was revived as a captivating retro sneaker following a unique collaboration with British designer Samuel Ross and his A-COLD-WALL* fashion label in 2018.

A new type of Vomero

The Vomero 5 represented somewhat of a peak for the franchise at the time, and its successor, though well-balanced, softly cushioned and flexible, was more understated and less exciting in its appearance. Despite this, the 6 was still well-received as it stayed true to the line’s ethos of comfortable cushioning, but when the Vomero 7 came out in 2012, something had changed. It was still a good distance-running shoe suited to relaxed paces, but it no longer had that max-cushioned feel that fans had come to expect from the Vomero. This was down to a few key alterations in its design, and in particular its new sole unit. No longer made of dual-density foam and without any segmented blocks in the midsole, it now featured one cohesive slab of full-length Cushlon, with a stiff cellulose board set into the heel of the strobel and a thick band of synthetic material set between the sole and the upper. Although these changes made the Vomero 7 protective, stable and durable, they also caused it to be much firmer underfoot and bulky through the midfoot, taking the franchise away from its traditional plushness. Its new Dynamic Fit upper introduced a Flywire lacing system and an updated eyelet configuration, which allowed the wearer to achieve a secure and customised fit while also relieving lace pressure. Meanwhile, soft padding remained on the collar and tongue, as did the supportive TPU heel counter, and its Ortholite Fitsole sockliner reduced some of the hardness from the heel plate. Ultimately, the Vomero 7 was a good running shoe, but many were disappointed at its departure from Cooper’s fundamental values of luxurious cushioning and premium comfort. Unfortunately for them, Nike used the exact same sole unit on the next two models.

An overused sole

2014’s Vomero 8 represented a jump forwards in design, with its sleek blend of spacer mesh and seamless no-sew overlays offering a lightweight, comfortable fit and high levels of breathability. It was also the last Vomero to include Nike+ technology as wrist-worn fitness trackers became more sophisticated and therefore more widespread. The Vomero 9 was released in the same year as its predecessor, with updates to its mesh upper and its Flywire lacing system, which now used thin cables instead of flat bands. However, none of these alterations could hide the fact that Nike had reused the same firm sole design on three subsequent models, which left some fans frustrated with the brand’s lack of innovation. It was normal for soles to be used across two contiguous models, but three was pushing it a bit far. Fortunately, this meant that it was sure to change on the Vomero 10.

A return to form

Released in 2015, the tenth iteration of Cooper’s running shoe enhanced comfort in a number of ways, starting with its one-piece engineered Flymesh upper. Its contemporary seamless design was lightweight, breathable and supportive, and its integrated Flywire laces had been doubled up to offer even greater security through the midfoot. It also featured an internal sleeve with a padded interior and silky lining, and the moulded FitFrame heel counter made for a gentle yet stable feeling around the back of the foot. Most importantly, though, its new midsole returned to a dual-density setup that set the Vomero back on the road to maximum comfort. A firm layer of Cushlon EVA formed its durable base, while the top layer was made of soft Lunarlon foam, which was more prevalent in the forefoot for a cushioned toe-off. Responsive Zoom Air remained in the heel and forefoot, and the updated outsole was grippy and durable. The Vomero 10 represented a return to form for the franchise, and Nike emphasised its speed and softness in an advert that showed it zooming through the air before bursting through a puffy pillow, leaving a trail of feathers in its wake, with the final caption stating: “What Feet Dream About”.

Building on success

Nike built on this success by keeping things mostly unchanged on 2016’s Vomero 11. Its sole unit was the same as the 10, and its upper had an updated engineered mesh build alongside a fresh take on Flywire lacing that returned to flat bands instead of string-like cords, which some runners found uncomfortable. In 2017, a new sole was introduced to models 12 and 13 that fully enclosed the heel and forefoot Zoom Air bags within a soft slab of Lunarlon foam surrounded by a more rigid EVA frame. This distributed the runner’s weight more evenly across the foot, providing reliable comfort for long-distance training. Meanwhile, the flexible outsole took cues from earlier Vomero models by incorporating generous grooves between its rounded Waffle-style grip pads. Each of these models had a different engineered mesh upper, with the 12 offering strong lockdown through its inventive Flywire lacing, which consisted of both cords and straps. The 13 returned to a strap-only design but was nevertheless renowned for the excellent fit derived from its internal sleeve and heel counter, as well as the distinctive aesthetic of the swooping synthetic panels wrapped around its heel.

Another change of direction

In 2018, as Samuel Ross was putting the Vomero 5 on a new track towards becoming a sought-after fashion item, Nike added striking updates to its latest running silhouette, the Vomero 14. Its firm midsole was layered with full-length Zoom Air and a new type of foam called React that was known for being lightweight and durable but also much more responsive than Cushlon or Lunarlon. Once again, though, it seemed that Nike was altering the purpose of the Vomero, and it began to lose its identity in the fast-changing world of running footwear. According to a line of text on the shoe’s lateral heel, the Vomero 14 was “Engineered for long distance”, but with its sleek, race-like upper, minimalist tongue, lightly cushioned forefoot and strategically placed heel padding, it seemed to be crafted for short, fast runs. The combination of snappy Zoom Air and energy-returning React, which was mostly packed into the enlarged heel, made the shoe quick and responsive, particularly during toe-off, where the thin layer of React gave the foot almost direct access to the springy Zoom Air bag. Meanwhile, the fully carbon rubber outsole was incredibly durable but failed to offer the softening effects of its predecessors, all of which had restricted the hard rubber to the heel, filling the midfoot and forefoot with softer blown-rubber.

A crisis of identity

Not only did the Vomero 14 confuse long-time fans of the franchise who had come to expect an all-round feeling of plushness for long steady training runs, it also dislodged the silhouette from its usual niche, putting it in competition with the brand’s other running shoes. While lightweight, cushioned and responsive, it lacked the necessary forefoot cushioning to match the comfort of the Pegasus Turbo, which was extremely reliable over long distances, and could not compare to the advanced technology of the Vaporfly, which was winning marathons all over the world. The Pegasus 36 was a more versatile daily trainer, the latest Zoom Elite and Zoom Rival models both gave a firmer, faster running experience, and for shorter distances, the Zoom Streak 7 was much more effective. So, even though the Vomero 14 had a host of excellent qualities, it was also going through an identity crisis that made it hard for runners to slot it into their footwear rotation.

Retro inspirations and modern materials

Nike went back to the drawing board, spending two years on the Vomero 15. When it finally came out in 2020, it was clear that the brand had tried to draw on beloved archival models like the Vomero 5 for inspiration, perhaps hoping to tap into its retro style and ignite a nostalgic flame in the hearts of long-time Vomero fans. Made from a flexible engineered mesh with a smooth, comfortable inner lining, perforated forefoot and generously padded collar, its upper featured a translucent midfoot saddle and an external heel counter with ventilation ports that evoked popular editions like the Vomero 3. In contrast, its sole was completely novel, introducing ZoomX foam into the midsole of a Vomero for the very first time. This lightweight, durable cushioning was highly responsive and well-known for its use on the Vaporfly super shoe, which had helped elite athletes like Eliud Kipchoge run record-breaking marathons. Protected by a frame of SR-02 carrier foam, it also housed a single Zoom Air unit in the forefoot, giving a propulsive feeling off the toe. Its outsole was made from high-abrasion OG/RS-002 rubber etched with a mixture of blocky and curvaceous lug patterns for efficient traction and durability. This blend of old and new made the Vomero 15 more versatile than the 14, allowing it to perform better over longer distances again, though due to its firm forefoot, it excelled around the 10k to half-marathon range rather than anything beyond that. Nevertheless, it got the franchise back on track, so Nike maintained a similar design for 2021’s Vomero 16, merely adding minor updates like a luxuriously padded tongue in line with the silhouette’s max-cushioning ethos.

A bold move

Despite the Vomero 16’s cushy, comfort-focused design, some runners still felt that it was a little too firm, but Nike was about to do something that would completely reverse this issue: remove the Zoom Air entirely. The springy cushioning had appeared in every iteration of the Vomero so far, so it may have seemed like a bold move to take it out, but in order to deliver the kind of premium cushioning experience its fans desired, the brand had to do so. In place of Zoom Air, the Vomero 17’s large midsole had a full-length layer of plush, energy-returning ZoomX foam stacked atop a thick slab of Cushlon 3.0. Alongside this, its redesigned outsole was flexible and grippy, its MR-10 last gave an enhanced fit for supreme comfort, and its return to a one-piece engineered mesh upper and fully-gusseted tongue ensured a lightweight, breathable feeling and a cosy fit. Lastly, its exaggerated midsole and sleek, minimalist outer presented a stylish contemporary aesthetic.

A compelling retro sneaker

The Vomero 17 came out in 2023, just as the retro Vomero 5 was having a huge impact on the sneaker scene. Following the collaboration with A-COLD-WALL* in 2018, there had been a few general release Vomero 5s in 2019, but then everything went quiet on the lifestyle side of things. However, in late 2022, Nike launched the dapper ‘Cobblestone’ and ‘Oatmeal’ editions, indicating a more permanent return for the sophisticated silhouette. Over the next few years, its blend of heritage running technology and classy throwback style made it one of the most popular daily sneakers around, paving the way for 2024’s weatherised variant, the rugged Vomero Roam, as well as collaborations like the sleek edition from high-fashion concept store Dover Street Market, which was designed to celebrate the retailer’s 20th anniversary. All of this served to elevate the profile of the whole Vomero franchise just in time for one of the biggest moments in its history.

A new road running system

It was clear by this point that the Vomero needed a strong identity to reach the pinnacle of success, and in 2025, the brand optimised for this by reorganising its road running footwear into a new system. Designed to cater to a broad spectrum of athletes, it simplified the decision-making process for runners, helping them to choose the correct type of shoe for their style and goals. Three clear categories of cushioning were represented by Nike’s most trusted running lines, with the Pegasus focusing on responsiveness, the Structure stable support and the Vomero maximum cushioning. The fact that the Vomero was chosen over franchises like the Invincible and the Vaporfly showed how highly regarded it was, but now the brand had to deliver the premium experience that its fans expected. They did so with the Vomero 18.

A new era of maximum cushioning

The Vomero 18 signified the dawning of a new age for Nike’s max-cushioned running shoes. With its role clearly defined, the silhouette could now focus fully on providing ultimate comfort, and it did so by bringing together the brand’s two most cutting-edge foams into one enormous midsole. Beneath a thick slab of ZoomX cushioning was a base of ReactX foam – a powerful evolution of React which was both 13% more responsive and far more sustainable to produce. This exceptionally soft midsole stack was the tallest ever used on a Vomero, standing at an impressive 46mm in the heel and setting a new standard for lightweight comfort. Nike expanded a feeling of plush support across the entire shoe, from its reduced outsole rubber and stretchy upper to its padded tongue and snug inner lining. Other features like the bevelled heel and gentle forefoot rocker, which guided the foot from the heel strike through to toe-off with a subtly propulsive effect, were designed to make daily training easy and enjoyable. Such features, and indeed every aspect of the Vomero 18, were based on the insights of female runners to ensure that it suited all genders. Meanwhile, its exhilarating aesthetic was a compelling evolution of its predecessors, its a sleek, minimalist upper covered in dynamic flowing patterns to match the elegantly curved contours of its sole.

Elevating the series

The Vomero 18 brought the legacy of the Nike Vomero line full circle, drawing on its roots to achieve the ultimate in max-cushioned road running. But this was only the beginning. Nike’s road running system also split each category into three tiers of increasing sophistication and quality. The lowest level was the so-called Icon, which was said to “anchor” each category with a reliable shoe for those looking to optimise their daily running experience without having to do too much research. Above this were the Plus and Premium levels, designed to offer an “elevated experience” that would allow the wearer to push their limits.

An exciting teaser

Shortly after the release of the Vomero 18, Nike gave excited fans a few details about the upcoming Vomero Plus. Images revealed an enormous, all-ZoomX midsole and a captivating minimalist upper with contoured lines rippling gracefully along its flanks. It promised to be the ultimate Vomero, and the culmination of a journey that had started almost two decades earlier. Even more exciting was the fact that the pinnacle of the series, the Vomero Premium, was yet to be unveiled.

A captivating story

When Aaron Cooper first began gathering insights for his proposed Air Nirvana, he never could have imagined where his project would end up. However, in sticking firmly to his principles of putting people ahead of profits by finding empathy with the communities around him, Cooper discovered a winning formula that would form the bedrock of the Nike Vomero line. Despite wavering from its foundations at times, it has always returned to the fundamental values of maximum cushioning for a premium running experience that lasts for mile after mile. According to Cooper, “It’s the stories that matter”, and the Vomero’s is as captivating as any, originating with the iconic silhouette’s bold conception, progressing through innovative design changes, losing its way more than once and generating one of the most popular retro sneakers of the 2020s, before finally becoming an essential model in Nike’s modern-day lineup of road running footwear.