2002R

Changing trends

During the 1990s and 2000s, New Balance developed a series of chunky, performance-oriented running shoes. At the time, they were popular amongst certain groups, especially dads who wanted no-nonsense sneakers that provided everyday comfort. While not initially considered to be particularly stylish, towards the end of the 2010s, these functional silhouettes returned as beloved lifestyle models and were embraced by followers of the so-called ‘dad-shoe’ trend. New Balance reissued several Y2K-era designs, with many being well-received by old and new generations alike. One of these was the 2002R – an almost-forgotten shoe that went on to become one of most sought-after fashion items of its time.

Luxurious inspirations

The original MR2002 was released as part of the brand’s successful 1000 series, and as such was created with a sporting use in mind. However, when it was first conceived in 2008, the aim was to design a silhouette that was luxurious in nature; one which people might choose to wear as more of a refined fashion choice than as an athletic shoe. Andrew Nyssen was the man charged with creating its upper, and to achieve the mindset needed to envision a high-class piece of footwear, he imagined the kind of sneaker the boss of a company might wear. In fact, during the design process, he drew up images of New Balance CEO, Rob DeMartini with 2002 prototypes on his feet as a sort of proof of concept. Along with this, Nyssen was inspired by brands working in the luxury space, including Swiss watchmaker Hublot and car manufacturer Bentley, from which he took the idea of building something rich and opulent that would also perform at the highest level.

A sophisticated upper

With these concepts in mind, Nyssen designed an upper made from the finest nubuck leather with a layer of breathable mesh for extra comfort. He added generous cushioning around the collar and tongue and lined the inner with antibacterial, sweat-wicking suede that felt luxuriously soft around the foot. A set of USA text on the heel revealed that it was part of the brand’s Made in USA series, which was made up of finely crafted, premium models, and the complex layering of the overlays presented more considered styling than would normally be found on a running shoe.

A premium sole unit

Having settled on a suitably sophisticated upper, Nyssen now needed an equally classy and high-performing sole, so he approached the experts in the New Balance Performance Running Team for advice. He asked them for their most up-to-date sole unit, and he received the one from another sporting silhouette called the 1906. This premium running shoe had itself only just been developed, meaning that it contained the brand’s best and most supportive components. Its midsole had full-length N-ergy cushioning, which was a Gel-based system that provided excellent levels of durability, shock absorption and comfort. Underneath this was a layer of hard-wearing rubber lined with flex grooves to facilitate natural movement of the foot and a complex tread pattern for exceptional grip. Lastly, the arch of the foot was supported by a lightweight but rigid structure known as the Stability Web that prevented midfoot flexion and thus reduced the chance of conditions like plantar fasciitis.

A superior sneaker with a price to match

To ensure that this high-performance sole unit matched the refined aesthetic of Nyssen’s upper, the designer altered its look and tonal presentation to appear more like a suave lifestyle shoe than an athletic one. The idea was to produce a silhouette that could perform a high-level sporting function if required, but which was actually intended for casual everyday use. As a result, when the 2002 came out in 2010, it both looked and felt great, leading legendary sneaker creative Ronnie Fieg to describe it as a “perfect 10” after he received the dapper release colourway. However, being manufactured in the United States with top-of-the-line technologies and high-quality materials, it also had to be sold at a much higher price than most other shoes on the market, making it unaffordable for many people. Even Nyssen was surprised at how expensive it was, and while the 2002 did develop a small cult following, with some seeing it as a sort of status symbol, it failed to reach the levels of popularity he and the brand had hoped. Soon, it fell away into obscurity and was all but forgotten.

Plucked from obscurity

For many years, the 2002 was left out of the sneaker conversation, and it could easily have been completely lost to history had it not been for the work of New Balance Japan employee Tetsuya Shono. A big fan of the original 2002 silhouette, which had become quite a popular fashion item in his native country, Shono first thought about bringing it back in 2018. His theory was that it would complement the success of the 990, offering a different option that contrasted but didn’t clash with the brand’s flagship series. He devised a plan to relaunch it, earmarking 2020 as the perfect year to do so as it would be the 10th anniversary of the 2002. However, this would require a serious effort to get the model rebuilt in time, especially since the 1906 midsole used on the original was now out of production.

Replicating the original

Instead of being daunted by the need to find a new sole unit, Shono saw it as an opportunity to experiment and innovate. He shifted the development and manufacturing process to Asia, where it could be moved along much more quickly and cheaply than in the United States while still maintaining New Balance’s high standards of quality control. Working with Global Creative Design Manager Taylor Canby, who had been with New Balance for almost twenty years at that point, Shono looked for a sole unit that would match the last shape of the 2002 as he planned to replicate the exact design of Nyssen’s upper. Canby took the lead on this last task, carefully selecting materials whose quality equaled those of the original and seeking out colours that would do it justice, particularly focusing on accurately recreating the grey nubuck panelling of the first MR2002 colourway. He paid close attention to every detail so that the new silhouette achieved the same level of style and sophistication as the 2010 shoe, giving the feeling of expert craftsmanship associated with a Made in USA model even though it was now being produced in Asia.

A new sole

With Canby perfecting the upper, Shono continued his search for a sole unit, and he soon came across one which looked like it could fit the bill. He found it on another model from the early 2010s, the 860v2, which had been rereleased in 2019 as part of the brand’s push to honour its classic models and take advantage of the trend for retro running shoes. This lightweight sole was an excellent piece of performance equipment that incorporated ABZORB cushioning in the forefoot and featured both ABZORB SBS and N-ergy technologies in the heel.

A successful prototype

Shono and Canby did their best to seamlessly combine the two halves of the shoe together, but they wouldn’t know if it was a success until the first prototype came back. Fortunately, when it arrived, the pair were delighted. Not only did it do justice to the original, it even worked a little better, as attested to by Nyssen himself, who later commented that the 860v2 sole unit visually flowed a little better with the overall design of the 2002.

A new beginning

As a result of Shono and Canbys’ hard work, when the updated silhouette was released in September 2020, it quickly surpassed the success of the original. Now called the 2002R, its upper had all the class and style of its predecessor, with the same blend of high-quality materials like plush suede, durable leather and breathable mesh giving it the on-trend look of a Y2K-era running shoe. Just like the 2010 version, its tongue and heel had thick padding for a snug, comfortable fit, while the charismatic overlays and elegant branding produced a throwback look that was stylistically versatile. Owing to the updated sole unit, it also represented a technological upgrade and was even more comfortable, stable and supportive than before. The ample stack height made space for the generous blend of ABZORB, ABZORB SBS and N-ergy Gel cushioning, which together offered a sturdy, protective platform with enough flexibility to maintain natural movement of the foot. An enhanced Stability Web stabilised the midfoot, and durable rubber covered the outsole for excellent traction and longevity. All of this came in a surprisingly lightweight package that was ideal for everyday use. Perhaps most importantly of all, it was considerably cheaper than the original 2002, making it accessible and appealing to a much broader audience.

Early collaborations

When the first 2002 model was launched, New Balance wasn’t really known for its collaborations, but a decade later, it had become one of the top sneaker brands for other creative entities to work with. As a result, the 2002R benefitted from outside input right from the start. Shortly after the initial general release colourways came out in September of 2020, which honoured the dark, grayscale tones of the ones made ten years earlier, Korean streetwear label thisisneverthat created two subtle designs in a typically minimalist style that gave the 2002R release a solid boost of hype and intrigue. More partnerships soon followed, including one with Taiwanese clothing boutique Invincible and Daisuke Obana’s fashion brand N. HOOLYWOOD which produced a captivating colourway referencing elements of their previous New Balance collaborations. Invincible’s co-founder, Michael Vincent, selected the 2002R as he thought that it belonged “to the moment and could be a possible classic in the future”. It turned out that he was right as another joint release was about to launch the revamped silhouette right to the forefront of sneaker culture.

Peace Be The Journey

That unforgettable collaborative sneaker was a vibrant orange colourway created with influential footwear designer Salehe Bembury. At the time, he had recently been promoted to Vice President of Sneakers and Men’s Footwear at Versace and was known for his skill in crafting luxurious shoes with a streetwear edge; a reputation developed during his time working with Kanye West on his epic Yeezy project. Always looking to innovate and do things differently, Bembury chose the 2002R over the more prominent 992 for what was actually his very first sneaker collaboration because it spoke to the nostalgic connection he had with New Balance and would act as a more standout canvas for his ideas. Drawing inspiration from the brilliant tones produced by the Navajo Sandstone walls of Antelope Canyon, Arizona, where he would often hike, Bembury decorated the suede overlays of his 2002R in a vibrant shade of Burnt Orange. Walking through the intricate system of channels that make up the canyon helped to settle his mind, and he took the phrase “Peace Be The Journey” from the 1993 movie Cool Runnings as the shoe’s name to reflect this fact. Before its release, this striking sneaker was previewed by American musician John Mayer on Instagram, his star-quality helping to build anticipation for the collaborative design, and when it eventually came out on 23rd October 2020, it was incredibly sought-after.

A fast-growing collection

The popularity of the Salehe Bembury collaboration had a profound effect on the overall success of the New Balance 2002R, and in the years that followed, its prosperity continued to grow. Alongside an ever-expanding range of stylish general release colourways, the brand designed several unique versions with its collaborative partners. In 2021, Bembury produced a second colourway called ‘Water Be The Guide’, this one based upon the beautiful blue-green tones of the Grand Canyon’s Havasu Falls. Around the same time, Japanese streetwear label BAPE created the ‘Apes Together Strong Pack’, which featured two sneakers, both with an eye-catching shark fin graphic wrapping around the heel and the brand’s trademark camo print on the underlay. Perhaps the most stunning 2002R releases of 2021, though, were the three models that made up designer Yue Wu’s ‘Protection Pack’. Originally named ‘Refined Future’ after the concept that inspired it, the shoes in this avant-garde collection had a radical, deconstructed look generated by the rough edges of their suede overlays. This gave them the appearance of collaborative models despite not being so, and they were received with the same level of excitement on their release in August of 2021.

The next hit sneaker

2022 brought even more colourways, both from collaborations and the New Balance design team. Yet more editions were added to the ‘Protection Pack’, which itself expanded to include some of the brand’s other popular silhouettes. Meanwhile, thisisneverthat, Invincible and N. HOOLYWOOD returned with new versions of their own, before a swathe of other creative partners got involved. Some of the most sought-after were an elegant two-pack by Japanese clothing brand AURALEE, three extra-durable sneakers with earthy tones from youth culture community The Basement, two striking colourways made for Australian footwear boutique Up There, the suave ‘Pistachio’ colourway from Ronnie Fieg’s Kith and a duo of elegant shoes with distinctive contrast stitching and textual graphics crafted by contemporary Danish label GANNI, which helped the 2002R expand into mainstream women’s fashion. Los Angeles artist Bryant Giles was responsible for two colourways defined by the use of his original art across each design, and legendary sneaker collaborator Joe Freshgoods forged the ‘Conversations Amongst Us’ colourway, whose elegant white overlays were lined with vibrant bursts of amber-tinged orange.

An ever-expanding list of creative partners

In 2023, collaborative design studio JJJJound built on its multi-year partnership with New Balance through the dapper ‘Storm Blue’ 2002R, whose soft blue tones reflected the autumnal and wintery skies, before moving onto two GORE-TEX editions and then a leather GORE-TEX one in 2024, all of which were designed specifically for urban environments in winter. While this was one of the most beloved collaborations of that year, New Balance continued to work with other partners, including footwear retailers like Shoe Palace, Hype DC and Foot Locker, streetwear brands such as DTLR and atmos, luxury activewear label Bandier and even Canadian basketball player Jamal Murray, who had just recently won his first NBA Championship with the Denver Nuggets.

A remarkable revival

Despite the craftsmanship and care that went into the original New Balance 2002, its high price saw the sneaker fall by the wayside far earlier than it perhaps should have done. For such a high-performing piece of footwear, this was a real setback which could easily have signalled its complete demise. However, thanks to the innovative vision of Tetsuya Shono and Taylor Canby, this heritage model finally got the recognition it deserved when it returned as the 2002R in 2020. Since this remarkable revival, it has gone on to great things, attracting exceptional designers from around the world to produce some of the most desirable collaborations of the decade and eventually becoming an icon of 2020s fashion. Neither a full retro, nor strictly a brand new sneaker, the New Balance 2002R has the perfect blend of heritage styling and contemporary technology to maintain this spectacular success for many years to come.